It sounds like my head is inside a jet engine while I wait for what seems to be inevitable. Sure enough it hits me in the gut, forcing what little air I was storing in my mouth to bleed out, one bubble at a time. I really could have used that air, considering I have no idea how long I will be down here. My body relaxes, and I let the ocean lead me in the violently rhythmic dance of drowning. It would be pointless to fight it, as I don’t know which way is up. I just have to wait, all the while remembering that this isn’t really how I go. Right as rain, I eventually reach the surface and it has never been so difficult to do such a simple thing. I open my mouth and tell myself, “gasp dam it, quick.” As oxygen reenters my lungs I have never felt so alive. I embrace my board. I know I am about to hear the sound of the jet engine again.
I love to surf because I am not very good at it. I don’t have much style and there is so much room for personal progression. It is constantly humbling me and it reminds me that- just like life- I have so much to learn. These experiences combined with the indescribable feeling you get when you catch that one perfect wave are what keep me paddling out to sea.
